This was the first full day I rowed a raft and Steve was kind (and/or crazy) enough to ride with me. We shoved off at about 8:20 and were treated to many exhibitions of kayaking skill and daring courtesy of Mason and Spencer.

About ten miles along, we came upon a rapid called Specter. I remember it because I got knocked over in it on a previous trip. As we entered it, we could see glimpses of the boys (Mason and Spencer) surfing in its waves and holes. In typical Lacy fashion, their father Gary quipped that they like to play “in-specter”.

The toughest rapid of the day was Dubendorff, which we scouted before entering. Steve and I did fine through it-as did everyone-and we stopped for lunch and a quick hike up Stone Creek where there is a warm beautiful waterfall. You can stand under the water and get an amazing massage just by moving around in it.

Four miles and a few rapids farther along, we came to Deer Creek. This is one of the most photographed spots in the canyon because a large amount of water falls almost 200 feet and it is visible from the river. We hiked the hot trail to get into upper Deer Creek Canyon and were rewarded with seemingly air-conditioned comfort and glimpses of the creek far below us in a twisting turning slot canyon. At one point we could see Gary and Mason at least 70 feet almost directly below us.

The boundless beauty of this unique place was not lost on indigenous people who used to inhabit it; there is a rock panel with outlines of over fifty hands of all sizes on it.

It was getting late-after 4 pm-and we reluctantly were on our way once again.

We decided that since we had stayed last night at Blacktail, we should high tail it to Fishtail, which is what we did and where we stayed, eight tired tails having arrived there at 6 pm.

It was a nineteen mile day and we were thrilled by not only the ever-changing scenery, but also the large desert bighorn ram who felt made his way to the river for a drink right through this small seldom-used campsite.