The weather has been its normal carbon-copy: hot and clear with almost 50 degree variations between day and night. We continue to settle into its pattern and again are up early.

This day, however, we began by scouting Unkar rapid, whose current pushes everything in it towards a big wall on the left shore because the river is making a sweeping right turn.

The time spent scouting paid off and all do fine.

A few miles farther along we encounter Nevill’s rapid and again all come through without incident.

The canyon is beginning to close in around us as we near what is known as the inner gorge. Not only are the walls much closer together, but they are composed of dark, hard rock.

Within a couple more miles we stopped to look at Hance rapid, rated the most difficult since Lee’s Ferry. After some time spent in decision (a.k.a. indecision) we paddled through. It went well for all, but I must admit the large size of the waves took me in my small kayak by surprise.

We were fortunate to be ahead of some other groups and maintain our lead through another challenging rapid known as Sockdolager.

The shores are now hard rock with a very rough surface. The only exception for miles is a beach on the left side, which is the only decent campsite for miles.

The camp is named Grapevine, after the name of a rapid just below it, and it is a phenomenal place we are lucky to have to ourselves.

We arrived at 1:30 pm, and even at that early hour we are treated to shade from the hot sun. The afternoon is spent lounging, laughing, bathing and napping-not necessarily in that order.

My brother Dave also remembers our Mom, who’s birthday it would be today if she were still with us. It is the second we have been without her and it still doesn’t seem as though she is really gone.

The scene is breathtaking and we wonder at Powell’s resolve as it is obvious the only way out of this place is down the river.